How Do You Know When a Pipe Bowl Needs to Be Reamed

The manufactures presented here were originally started with permission from the splendid FAQ from the Alt.Smokers.Pipes FAQ[1]

Pipedia Underwriter, The Pipe Nook, caters to the new and nearly-new pipe smoker. The owner is Eddie Greyness

Maintenance

Not handy with tools, yet want to restore an old pipe? Rich Esserman wrote an first-class article that may be merely the thing: Effort this at Dwelling
In addition to the information bellow, check out How to Clean Your Piping (Smokingpipes.com)

Reaming

After a pipe has been smoked for a long time its cake may get so thick that it significantly reduces the capacity of the bowl. In very extreme cases, an overly thick cake may really scissure the bowl due to differential expansion. Ideally, the block should non exceed i-sixteenth of an inch (about 1.five mm) or so. When the block exceeds this thickness, information technology should be carefully reamed. Some pipe tools have a blunt-pointed (to prevent gouging of the bowl bottom) knife blade for this purpose. While these will piece of work, information technology is very easy to trim the cake unevenly or even inadvertently dig into bare woods. Numerous adjustable, multibladed reamers are available commercially, and these will practice a much neater task. A favored tool for this chore--suggested by pipage maker extraordinaire JT Cooke--is nothing more than a series of short wooden dowels of varying diameters that are wrapped with fine grit emery material or sandpaper. Whatsoever device you lot choose to use, work slowly and advisedly then as non to harm your pipe. The thought is to gradually shave the cake down to the proper thickness, not scrape information technology out in chunks. If you lot take more than the usual number of thumbs, you might want to take the pipe to your tobacconist, who will commonly perform this task for a nominal fee.

What tin I practise when my pipe "turns sour"?

A piping, properly cared for, will probably outlast its owner. Occasionally, however, a pipe may begin to sense of taste bitter or "sour." Sometimes this is caused by not allowing the pipage sufficient time to "residual" between smokes; other times, no cause tin can be determined with certainty. In any effect, such a pipe can usually be rejuvenated past applying the "Professor's Pipe-Sweetening Treatment," publicized by Dennis Congos.

Get-go, notice some salt (non-iodized is preferred, only not essential), some alcohol (preferably "Everclear," or some other form of near-pure, not-denatured ethanol), and a place to residuum your piping in a semi-upright position. Insert a piping cleaner into the stem of the pipe so that it extends into the shank. Fill the bowl to the rim with salt and drip or advisedly pour booze into the basin until the common salt is just saturated. Try not to get whatsoever alcohol on the pipe's outside, every bit this may impairment the end; any spills should be wiped up immediately. Leave the pipe solitary for a solar day or two. After this fourth dimension the salt will accept turned brown from the absorption of "tars" from the bowl. Thoroughly clean all salt from the basin and prepare the piping aside overnight to dry out completely. Your piping will now be revitalized, and all traces of bitterness should be gone.

Warning: Many people swear by this process, but the procedure is non risk-free. Some people take had pipes scissure subsequently this handling, particularly when they allowed the salt and alcohol mixture to enter the pipe'southward shank and/or when they left the mixture in the piping for several days. Any pipe with significant monetary or sentimental value should be sent to a professional person pipage repair person.

You might too want to give the stem draft-hole a thorough cleaning by periodically cleaning information technology with a scrubbing bristle pipecleaner dipped in alcohol or a "piping sweetener".

G.L. Pease also offers a more constructive method:

"I reamed the pipage almost back to bare wood, pre-heated my electric oven to 220°F, and turned information technology off. Later on removing the pipe's stalk, I filled the basin with activated charcoal pellets purchased from the local aquarium supply store. Placing the pipe on a soft towel in the oven, I left it to sit while the oven cooled - nearly an hour... No perceptible deviation was detected.

A couple of conversations with Trever Talbert, friend, pipesmith extraordinaire, and constant experimenter with briar, provided an important piece of information; briar heats very slowly. He explained that it could take several hours for a piece of briar's temperature gradient to reach equilibrium with the ambient temperature. Clearly, my piping's brusque stint in the Sauna was insufficient to practice the job.

I reheated the oven, this time setting the thermostat to 180°F, knowing from my tests that the temperature in my empty oven would vary between about 180°F and a flake over 200°F, well below the temperature at which the briar would scorch. Stemless and empty, I placed the bowl on its towel in the oven, on the upper rack, far away from the source of radiant heat, where it would be left to sit down for three hours.

After removing the now hot pipe, I filled the bowl with the activated charcoal, and placed it back in the oven for an additional iii hours. When the pipe was finally removed, and emptied of the charcoal, there was admittedly no trace of its prior scent ... Later on allowing the pipe to cool overnight, the stem was refitted, the bowl filled with a favored blend, delicate plenty to allow any vestigial flavors from the pipe to come through conspicuously. I saturday downwardly to experience the fruits of my labors. Success! Only at the very bottom of the bowl was a slight hint of the previous odor, and this disappeared completely later a couple of smokes."

Polishing stems

Vulcanite stems can oxidize, turning a disgusting brownish green color caused by a reaction between sunlight and the sulfur in the prophylactic. This is ane case where "an ounce of prevention" definitely pays off. Avoid exposing vulcanite stems to straight sunlight whenever possible, and wipe off your stems later on each use. Products such as Obsidian Oil also claim to stave off the evolution of oxidation. When oxidation does begin to form, it can often be removed with a mild annoying, such as baking soda or toothpaste. If the oxidation is likewise severe for this treatment, jeweler's rouge or an automobile rubbing compound will often do the trick. For truly stubborn stems more than drastic measures may be required. An overnight soak in household bleach will plow your stems blackness again, only yous should exist careful to cover whatever stem logos with a hulk of petroleum jelly to protect them prior to soaking, and you should be prepared to utilize some elbow grease to polish the stalk surface, which volition be roughened past this handling.

The method at present usually preferred to a bleach soak is to soak the stem for up to an 60 minutes in a solution of warm water and oxygenated bleach such as Oxyclean, then rinse and scrub thoroughly with melamine cream such as a Mr. Clean Magic Eraser. While the method will remove paint from a stamped stem logo, it volition not damage metal fittings. However, the stem will often be in need of either buffing or sanding with micromesh sanding pads to return it to its original shiny status.

Professionals (and "serious amateurs") remove oxidation with a buffing wheel loaded with Tripoli or some like annoying and then utilize carnuba wax to protect the stem and bring out a high shine. If you wish to use a buffing rig, consult with someone experienced in such matters. It'due south all likewise easy to burn down a stem on a buffing cycle running at excessively high speed or, for that affair, to catapult a briar into your confront. Extremely deep oxidation is almost sure to crave sanding to remove, and may only be visible under angled lite in a night room. An oxygenated bleach soak can assistance in bringing deep oxidation to the surface, just will not eliminate the problem completely if the oxidation is severe.

Treat meerschaum pipes

Starting time, and most importantly, don't drop it. Meerschaum is fragile, and it is very unlikely that your pipage will survive a swoop to the kitchen floor. Second, practice not let a cake to build in the bowl. The forming of cake can exist slowed considerably by, after letting the pipe cool and holding information technology with a cloth, removing loose dottle from the basin with a pipe cleaner and "reaming" the bowl out with a twisted paper towel. This does not eliminate the formation of cake, however. If your piping does start to build a cake, do non use a standard piping reamer. The appropriate method instead is to employ a abrupt knife with a rounded tip and to carefully scrape the block off the block, keeping the bract perpendicular to the surface at all times.

Meerschaum experts oft warn about extremes in temperature, and circumspection against taking a hot pipe into cold weather or putting it down on a cold surface. The best way to residue a hot meerschaum in any case is with a pipage holder that holds the piping by the stem, and not the bowl. For a cold meerschaum, the pipe should be returned to its example, but only after it is fully cool and dry.

Nigh modernistic meerschaums accept a two function connexion betwixt the stem and shank, originally invented by Andreas Bauer of Vienna. Because the mortise insert unscrews counter-clockwise, it is important to remove the stalk past turning it clockwise only. The mortise insert should simply be removed when it is damaged or otherwise in need of replacement, and if either part of the "push-pull" tenon and mortise is removed the other part should be replaced as well. The tenon should be regularly unscrewed from the stalk in order to permit cleaning behind it, as tar can collect in this space and affect the pipe's performance. Meerschaum is a very absorbent, inorganic textile, and does non require the same "residuum menses" that briars do. All the same, I would at least allow the pipe to cool and dry completely before loading up and smoking it again.

Many meerschaum aficionados merits that to ensure proper "coloring" of the bowl you lot should never hold the bowl with your blank hands while smoking, and continuous belongings of a hot meerschaum pipe can become so far equally to embed fingerprints into the pipe itself. Many cull to have the risk given the convenience of holding the pipage similar any other, but belongings by the stem will ensure that wax is non removed and dirt is not deposited on the pipe.

Meerschaum colors considering of its sparse coating of pure beeswax, which assists nicotine and tobacco oils in migrating in and out of the cake of the piping. If information technology is smoked as well hot, or handled too much, the wax coating will exist removed and the color will stop migrating. Should the pipe brainstorm to look dry or chalky in spots, pure beeswax can be melted with a pilus dryer on low oestrus and applied directly to the pipe while smoking, using a cotton wool swab to get out an even coat. After the pipage has cooled it can be buffed with a cotton material to remove any backlog wax and return the smoothen to the block.

Should I store my pipe with a cleaner in the stem?

At that place are iii schools of thought on this issue:

Those who do not leave a pipe cleaner in their pipe between smokes. These people believe that doing so foreclose their pipe from drying quickly and or doing and so properly.
Those who do go out a pipe cleaner in their pipage between smokes. These people believe that doing then assists in the absorption of nasty stuff.
Those who compromise by leaving a piping cleaner in their pipe for a short period (usually overnight), then removing it to let the pipe to dry completely.

Personally, I belong to group #1 a about half the time. The residual of the time I'm a #3, unless I forget to remove the pipage cleaner, in which case I'm an accidental #2. Lesser line: It actually doesn't matter. Any works for you lot is fine.

Breaking In a New Pipe

Meet a bully article by Fred Hanna called The Mysteries of the Briar Break-in Process.

Basic Repairs

Airflow

Airflow bug are not exactly a repair, per se, but could peradventure be contributing to a piping that is just not smoking up to its potential. Rick Newcomb suggests that pipes with an open air flow smoke improve. It is controversial, just bears exploration, as many piping smokers are now sold on this concept. With it working for then many, it might just work for you and that problem pipe. Ken Campbell wrote an interesting article for The Pipe Collector called Airflow: The Key to Smoking Pleasure.

Fixing a loose stem

Even if you're careful to never remove the stalk from a hot pipe, yous may occasionally be faced with a loose stem. Often this problem will fix itself with time, but if the stem is so loose that it is in danger of falling out, then something must be done. The safest bet is to take the pipe to a tobacconist or send it to a repairperson. These people will have a slap-up deal of practice performing this chore, and they will exercise it for a very modest fee. Information technology is remarkably piece of cake for an amateur to crack a shank while attempting this repair, as many of us tin can sadly attest.

Even so, if you are adamant to do this yourself, you lot must first make up one's mind what sort of stem you take. If the stem is lucite, the easiest fix is to apply a very thin layer of clear nail polish to the tenon, allow this to dry *completely*, and so advisedly sand the tenon to fit. A vulcanite stem, on the other mitt, is a scrap more complicated, as you lot will demand to oestrus the tenon and expand it in some mode. In that location are a number of variations to this procedure, merely the about common 1 is described below.

Showtime, remove the stem from the pipage and insert a pipe cleaner into the stem so that it but reaches the finish of the tenon (this is to ensure that y'all don't collapse the air hole). Next, advisedly oestrus the tenon over a match for about five seconds (the intent is to soften the vulcanite, not melt it). Then gently press the end of the tenon against a flat surface, keeping the tenon equally perpendicular to the surface every bit possible, taking care not bend the tenon to one side or the other. After the stem has cooled, test fit it. If the stem is still too loose, repeat this procedure. If it is now too tight, so see "What should I practise with a stem that's too tight?" below. NOTE: It is *very* like shooting fish in a barrel to ruin a perfectly good pipe with this technique, and I feel I should reiterate my before statement that this task is best undertaken by a "professional."

A variation on the above that has less take chances of angle or ruining the tenon is the following: Insert a tapered mandrel into the tenon. Utilize heat to the mandrel (an alcohol flame is recommended). Equally the heat from the mandrel transfers to the tenon and softens it, motility the mandrel further into the tenon. Repeat equally necessary to get the desired expansion. Remove the mandrel and place tenon in cold water to set. Note that PIMOmakes a 'Stem Tightening Kit' that uses this principle.

A less radical (and *much* safer) procedure that has been recommended to me by several people is to simply rub the stem'due south tenon against a block of beeswax until the tenon is well coated. Once this is consummate, reinsert the stem. I am told that the articulation will tighten subsequently a smoke or two.

Another less radical approach to try if the beeswax method doesn't piece of work, is to simply rut the tenon so allow it to absurd. Very often the tenon will have expanded just enough to make a decent fit. Rather than an open flame, I suggest carefully using a heat gun, or a handheld hairdryer on high heat aimed at the tenon.

Fixing a stalk that'southward too tight

If the stem is still inserted in the pipe and is and then hard to remove that you fear your piping may be damaged, then place the pipe in the freezer for several minutes. This works the vast majority of the time; however, if the stem even so proves too difficult to remove, smoke the pipe, allow information technology to cool, and effort to remove the stalk once more. If neither of these techniques work, then send the piping to a reputable repairperson.

If you do manage to remove the stem, place some sort of dry lubricant, such every bit graphite (from a soft pencil) or wax, on the tenon and endeavour to reinsert the stem. If this does non provide satisfactory results, you will need to remove a small-scale amount of cloth from the tenon. Wrap some very fine (400 grit or and then) sandpaper or some "O" or effectively form steel wool around the tenon and twist the stem gently. Work very slowly and carefully, and bank check the fit frequently until it is satisfactory.

Professional repair videos

George Dibos

Reknown pipe repairman, George Dibos has been doing an excellent serial on high grade pipage repair, which can exist seen on Youtube. Hither is a link to his playlists including the various procedures he has videod so far: George Dibos High Grade Pipe Repair and Restoration Playlists.

Bare Piping

40+ episodes well-nigh piping restoration

Professional repair shops

Iran

Repair pipes. Representative to sale Brebbia Pipes, Gasparini Pipe, Sahin Pipo, mastro de Paja and many others in Iran. Also we tin can repair steams. Telephone call us: +98 21 77 half-dozen 22 460 -one or +98 912 892 0 390 Managed by Mr. Artin Abrahamian see us: www.piping.cafeartin.com

U.South.

Bear Briar - Thomas (Bear) Tessier, Website: http://www.bearbriar.com/ Address: 3452 Mendocino Ave., Suite C, Santa Rosa, CA 95403. Telephone: 707.545.0701, Fax: 707.545.2440 Email: tom@bearbriar.com.

Briar Pipe Repir - David Smith has 30 years experience repairing tobacco smoking pipes since 1986. He has repaired pipes for tobacco shops big and small for years around Indiana and takes pride in his piece of work. And has a fast turn around. Briar Pipe Repairs, 127 W. Hendricks St. , Greensburg IN 47240. Phone: 812-614-6278. Electronic mail: briarpiperepairs@gmail.com. Website: Briarpiperepairs.com

Briarville Tobacco Pipe Repair and Restoration, "Pipe Repair and Close as Your Mailbox" - Briarville is the prefered shop at TPC/GPC, serving the online pipe customs, brick and mortars and smoking pipe enthusiasts in the United States and abroad. 2773 West Division St. Hermitage, TN 37076. Telephone: 615-957-7582. Read our customer reviews at Briarville.com, E-postal service - Briarville is the repair and restoration store at Joe Example Pipes. Yous may savor listening to Brian Levine's interview with Ric Farrah of Briarville Pipe Repair on the Pipes Magazine Radio Show

Mary Ann Keller, owner of the American Smoking Pipe Repair Company [2] and who has mad skills, now does her considerable magic for online vendor E.A. Carey. website. Mary Ann tin can be emailed direct at mailto:mak11@ptd.net

George Dibos began collecting, refurbishing, and repairing pipes in the 1970'due south as hobby, and went total time in 2007. He now has the most comprehensive dedicated repair shop in the United States. To control need/workload he no longer accepts blind mail-ins, but asks that piece of work requests exist made via telephone, usually with emailed photos and discussion to follow. His specialties are high course collectables, and technically difficult repairs that require high precision and specialized tools. He can exist reached at (816) 605 1341. In 2018 he too started making and uploading repair and restoration videos to YouTube to assist hobbyists and other professionals. Here is a link to his playlists including various procedures: George Dibos High Grade Piping Repair and Restoration Playlists.

You may also relish listening to Brian Levine's interview with George on The Pipes Magazine Radio Show

Norwood's Piping Repair, 1160 Norwood Lane, Clifton, Tennessee 38425, (731) 925-1836. E-mail, Website Floyd Norwood is the repairman of choice for numerous pipe and tobacco shops throughout the U.Southward. and is known for his quality work, fast plough around time and prices that are often one/iii that of his competitors. Floyd likewise crafts quality freehand pipes as a hobby which tin can be purchased at his website.

Ronni Bikacsan does fantabulous pipe repairs and alterations. Contact information: NightOwl Pipe Works, E-mail: mailto:rbpipeworks@gmail.com PLEASE NOTE: website says Ronni is not taking new customers.

Schulte's Pipe Repair is the best around! They are the only authorized repair shop in the U.Southward. for Dunhill pipes. Contact Howard Schulte at (772) 564-0079. 678 Sometime Dixie Highway, Vero Beach, Florida 32962. All work is washed by mail guild, but phone call start. Your pipe will be like new!

Stem & Briar LLC., owned by James Connelly, operates a modest estate pipe store, and restoration concern. Offers several estate pipes, racks and accessories for sale also as pipe repair and rejuvenation services. Address - 9211 South. Nicholson Rd., Oak Creek, WI 53154; Phone: 414-949-7473; Electronic mail: stemandbriar@gmail.com . Website

Tim West owner of J.H.Lowe, has been a Briar Pipemaker and a Pipe Repairman since 1975. Address - 1588 Grayling Ct., Columbus, OH 43235-5950; 614-761-3465; East-mail mailto:info@jhlowe.com . J.H.Lowe Main Website Repairs Folio

Walker Pipage Repair, LLC, 1210 Franklin Blvd., Ann Arbor, MI 48103. Phone: 734-945-1691. Dave Wolff restored and repaired pipes for more than than 40 years earlier turning the business concern over to Mike Myers, who at present owns and operates the business. He sells a Vulcanite Stem Restoration Kit (which works)on his website, and Walker Briar Works, the other side of the business organization, carries hand finished Lucite and Vulcanite 'Forever' Stems for Corn Cob Pipes. E-post, Website

Wall's Pipe Repair, 12 S. Main St., Mansfield, OH (419-522-6218) Website

REPAIR SHOPS NO LONGER ACTIVE (or not offering repairs):

E Pipe Repairs, 144 Linebrook Route, Ipswich, Ma. 01938. Electronic mail, Website PLEASE NOTE: this site is downwards; 404 not establish.

Jo Barnfield, manager of Monarch Pipe Company fabricated and repaired pipes for E.A. Carey for many years.
Please NOTE: Jo retired in Jan 2015 and no longer does repair work.

Randy Krempp did repairs and refurbishing and has an splendid reputation.
Delight NOTE: no contact information found. Please update with any additional information.

Raphael Manor Restoration, owned by Raphael Fiedler, offer repair and restoration of all manner of pipes. On facebook at Raphael Estate Restoration, by e-mail to damnedatom@gmail.com, via mail service to 125 Fort Charles Drive, Supply, N Carolina 28462, or by phone to (631) 816-5886.
PLEASE NOTE: Mr. Fiedler retired November 2015 and no longer does repairs.

Restoration Piping Repair, owned by Frank Storm. Nosotros have merely learned that Frank is at present retired and no loonger doing pipe repair work.

Scott Bundy, Electronic mail
Delight Annotation: Website URL is now an attack site. Please update with any additional information.

Shane Slayton - 73 Hill Acme Church Rd. Glenwood, AR 71943 - Repairs broken tenons at a ridiculously depression price. For the most function a hobbyist, who learned out of necessity, his piece of work is a swell alternative to replacement stems. Usually effectually v bucks. scorpio2billion@yahoo.com
Please NOTE: Mr. Slayton passed away in May 2015.

Smokers' Oasis, 2106 N. High St., Columbus, OH (614-299-2442) Website
Delight Note: according to Mr. Premal Chheda, Smokers Haven no longer does repair piece of work.

Starfire Pipe Works owned by Howard Rasmussen. Delight Annotation: No more than pipe work existence accepted. Howard still does laser engraving, all the same, and will engrave pipes. Due east-postal service: info@starfireengraving.com. website.

Canada

Blatter & Blatter - 375 President Kennedy ave., Montreal Quebec H3A 0B3. Tel: 514-845-8028: In business since 1907, brand their own tobacco blends & pipes, and are the only pipage-oriented tobacconist in Montreal. http://www.blatterpipes.com/

Before-n-Subsequently-Pipes, Piping repairs and services,1178 phillips suite 420,Montreal,Quebec 514-554-1756 E-mail Website
Please NOTE: Site and electronic mail address no longer operational. Please update with whatsoever additional information.

Reborn Pipes: Steve Laug of Reborn Pipes has recently started refurbishing and repairing pipes for customers, as well equally for resale. You can hear an excellent interview Brian Levine did with Steve on the Pipes Mag Radio Show

United kingdom & Europe

Reborn Briar Estate Pipes - Reborn Briar offers pipage restoration services, from a make clean and polish to a complete restore and refinish. They too offer a large range of fully restored pipes for auction in their online shop Reborn Briar Estate Pipes, Electronic mail - Reborn Briar is a TPC/GPC preferred vendor. - 56 Hillview Route, Carrickfergus, BT38 8GY. Tel: 07950-131631 http://www.estatepipeshop.co.britain/

Baard Hansen Tabago Pipemaker of Bergen Norway. Repair and restoration [3] Post box: Tabago pipemaker, PO Box 18, Birkebeinersenteret, Due north-5831 Bergen.Telephone: +47 41 02 08 fourscore Email Website

Der Pfeifenputzer Repair and restoration, Christian Oehme, Prahlsdorfer Weg 50c, D-21465 Reinbek, world wide web.der-pfeifenputzer.de

byrnefatersainat.blogspot.com

Source: https://pipedia.org/wiki/Pipe_care/cleaning